|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 14, 2018 13:26:47 GMT -5
So I'm looking at converting my fridge to a kegerator. There are so many options with purchasing faucets and other hardware.
1) What suggestions do you have for the hardware? What things are important and what things are just windowdressing? I don't want to buy the cheapest just because it is the cheapest, but I don't want to pay more for something that isn't necessary or worth the money.
2) What type of regulator do I need so I can use one CO2 tank for the kegerator and to separately force carbonate another keg? What size of CO2 tank do you suggest?
Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by Stephen on Apr 14, 2018 14:02:18 GMT -5
When I built mine I looked high and low. Here's what I came up with: Price OBK beats everybody a with their kit setups. Kits are here for ball locks...note you don't need the deluxe unless you plan to use commercial kegs. www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Pass_Through_Kegerator_Kits_Ball_Lock_Cornelius_s/499.htmFaucets The current swear by tap seems to be the faucets by Intertap. They're a but cheaper than the Perlicks and have interchangeable spouts (growler filler, stout faucet ball lock fitting and springs for auto close). People also seem to think they're better quality and leak less. I'd go to Stainless steel for quality (they make chrome plated too). I have just the regular SS ones without flow control and haven't had any problems with excessive foaming but I also run 10' beer lines. If money wasn't an issue at the time I'd definitely go an get the flow control versions so I could have shorter lines and dial back the flow at the tap. Lines As above I'd go for 10' lines unless you go flow control and then you could go shorter. The longer the lines the more stuff is floating around inside the keezer which gets in the way when messing around inside and also, the more beer that sits in the lines (more wasted beer depending on how often you pour. Like I said, mine would be short had I gotten the flow control taps. CO2 Tank Unless you plan to move it around go 10lb (or even larger) as getting it filled is a pain and the larger the tank the less it costs to fill per pound. Regulator Don't buy a cheap one. Go for a Taprite so you know its decent. If you want to pour and carbonate at the same time you have a few options. You can easily get away with a single regulator (with dual gauges) and just use a manifold to split and pour/carbonate at the same time. That only works easily if you carbonate at serving pressure (slow) and let it ride a week or so for each new keg to carbonate (you can also go faster with the shake method but it's not a great system). If you want to carbonate fast then its better to get a dual product regulator so you can set one to serving pressure and one higher to carbonate the other keg fast (this makes the most sense for you I think) OR you can still use a single regulator and a then get a secondary regulator that you can set multiple pressures depending on what your doing. I have this but mostly because I want to be able to have the ability to set the main regulator high and then dial each secondary for different beers (low for milds etc that have low carbonation, higher for IPA's etc, higher still for belgians and sours and super high for carbonating fast). The tank and primary regulator sit outside my keeper and the hose goes in through the sidewall and then it gets to the secondary regulator mounted inside the keezer. Link to the secondary regulators: www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Secondary_Regulators_s/613.htmAnyway. That's what I think. Cheers
|
|
|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 14, 2018 19:05:05 GMT -5
So if I get the flow control taps, what length of line would I be looking at.
3/16" line?
I've seen many calculators on line from kegerator makers and PhDs and supply stores, and some say 10' and others say 4' for the exact same parameters.
|
|
|
Post by denkneevee on Apr 15, 2018 8:48:58 GMT -5
I agree with all of Steve's points. Especially for getting a dual regulator, it comes in handy for carbing kegs and keeping finished kegs on serving at the same time. I have the Perlick flow control taps in which I like. I find I have to clean them more often as the arm can get stick depending on the style and amount of adjuncts in the beer. I find then useful for when I want to bottle right from the tap into say a growler. I have an attachment piece I bought from OBK that I can connect on the taps and it acts as a growler filler (tube attached) so I can fill from bottom of bottle with less flow. The flow control also let's me slow down the fill if it's a very high carbed beer. Lastly, my suggestion is for building the collar on top of the bottom of the freezer and not attached to the lid- sorry Alex... It's mostly preference though and if you can lift your keg a few inches extra then that's the way to go. The collar in lid method can keep everything accessible when you open the top but I just don't want to put that much strain on my hinges. Any other questions let Dan or I know. We were very close a few years back to starting a small keezer business, had a masters of business license and made a few for friends as well. I have a master parts list for everything you would need for purchase to set up a complete system if you are interested.
Cheers eh.
|
|
|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 15, 2018 15:58:17 GMT -5
I have a tentative list, but I'm sure I could use yours, Denny. I would be greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by Stephen on Apr 16, 2018 10:48:43 GMT -5
Tony,
Yes 3/16th's and the length depends on a bunch of factors but the kits come with options of 6' and 10'. I'm sure the 6 would work great. You could get away possibly with shorter but foaming depends on more than line length (height of rise the flow is going above the keg, temperature of the faucet and lines etc. Honestly is seems everyone has a different opinion on this and I haven't been able to fully sketch in why some people have problems and others don't. Like I said, 6 should be more that adequate. I suspect shorter is doable but maybe something you could try down the road based on your setup.
|
|
|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 16, 2018 12:07:02 GMT -5
Steve,
6' sounds good. With the control flow taps I hope that makes things doable. I also will need enough line to open the door.
|
|
|
Post by Alex Bullock on Apr 16, 2018 21:40:41 GMT -5
Lastly, my suggestion is for building the collar on top of the bottom of the freezer and not attached to the lid- sorry Alex... Collar on the lid for the win! In all seriousness, that's what works for me and not necessarily everyone else! I like how having the collar attached to the lid lifts all of the draft lines out of the way. It also means I don't have to lift kegs as high when putting a new keg in there.. but I am pretty lazy. The hinges definitely don't like the extra weight. If I had to start all over I'd go with the intertap flow control. I have the perlick 630SS and like them a lot, but I'm often struggling with foam unless I have a 15-20' line. The flow control is a good option.. less beer line to clean and less clutter in the keezer. The perlick faucets are a bit of a challenge to take apart and clean. I agree with Steve on the regulator and CO2 tank. 10lb+ CO2 tank for sure.. I started with a 5lb and it only lasted 4-5 kegs. I got a 20lb tank and don't have to worry about CO2 for almost a year.. plus I don't feel as bad using it to purge kegs. The regulator I have is the dual product reg from Taprite. It's handy to be able set two different pressures and I couldn't convince myself to get a secondary regulator to have a third set pressure. I usually have one set at 6 psi for low carbed beers and the other set at 10-12 psi for normal carb (my keezer is set at 5C). I just manually crank one of the pressures up temporarily to quick carb a beer. Edit - Just saw that you have a fridge already.. deleted a bunch of text on temperature control and condensation in keezer builds
|
|
|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 16, 2018 22:06:53 GMT -5
OK...IM ALMOST THERE!!!!!
The gas lines: I've seen people using 1/4" lines but the manifolds and regulators use 5/16" or 3/8" tubing.
What size gas line do you use?
|
|
|
Post by Stephen on Apr 16, 2018 22:10:49 GMT -5
Because it was much cheaper to buy from OBK as a kit I just got whatever they sell as gas tubing premade so I didn’t even ponder different sizes. Looked on the site and it’s 5/16”
|
|
|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 17, 2018 18:25:56 GMT -5
Thanks the input Stephen, Alex, and Denny. I'm going to pull the trigger on one of the OBK kits with some upgrades. Interesting that with the upgrades it cost a slight bit more than if I got all the parts separately and put things together myself. But for convenience it will be worth it.
Now I just have to drink a majority of the bottles I already have so my fridge won't be full of bottles when I try to convert it.
|
|
|
Post by denkneevee on Apr 17, 2018 19:38:16 GMT -5
Thanks the input Stephen, Alex, and Denny. I'm going to pull the trigger on one of the OBK kits with some upgrades. Interesting that with the upgrades it cost a slight bit more than if I got all the parts separately and put things together myself. But for convenience it will be worth it. Now I just have to drink a majority of the bottles I already have so my fridge won't be full of bottles when I try to convert it. Or we can arrange to show up and help you take care of them bottles. Just a suggestion.
|
|
|
Post by imaretiree on Apr 17, 2018 20:00:05 GMT -5
I may have a "Help Me Get Rid Of My Beer" party.
|
|